pinterest verify Globerovers Travel Photography: Winter wonderland of northern Japan

Winter wonderland of northern Japan


Tancho Cranes and Hooper Swans annually migrate from upper Siberia in Russia to the relatively less harsh winters of eastern Hokkaido Island of northern Japan. Watch as these cranes do their love dances in the snow and feel free to join the swans in the thermal spring waters of the lake. When bird spotting in the deep freeze gets too tiring, soak in one of the many romantic outdoors natural thermal springs while your surroundings get covered in snow. End the day with Japanese cuisine around the fire place, and sleep on your tatami mat after sipping on a cup of green tea. Sounds good? It is! Lets go JAPAN!

The starting point to this journey is a JR (Japan Rail) pass purchased before you arrive in Japan. This pass is only available to foreign visitors and must be purchased prior to landing in Japan. While a 7-day (or 14-day) pass is not cheap, you will find that the pass is paid within 2 or 3 days of travel on local fares. Trains (and buses) are very expensive in Japan. Japan Rail has most of the country covered and the pass includes all the fastest bullet trains (except the super fast Nozomi Shinkansen).

The Red-Crowned Crane (or Japanese Tancho Crane) is found around the marshes north of the town of Kushiro on eastern Hokkaido Island. Hokkaido is Japan’s northern most large island which forms the head of the dragon-shaped Japan. In the spring and summer these cranes breed in Russia’s Siberia region but wisely spend their winters around the Kushiro marshes where the cold is less severe than back in Siberia. There are a few places to see them: The International Crane Centre, about 60 minutes by bus north of the Kushiro JR station, is probably one of the best places to get close to them. Here, on a good day, you will find about 100 or more cranes, often accompanied by Hooper Swans. If you have your camera with you, you will compete with Japanese photographers (and rarely a foreigner) who tirelessly point their massive Nikon and Canon telephoto lenses at the birds.

Hooper Swans (also known as Whooper Swans) are in their hundreds on the warmer waters of Lake Kussharo, about an hour north of Kushiro.

From the little village of Kawayu Onsen (with lots of thermal activity and hot springs) it is about 15 km by road to the lake where the swans congregate in two spots (Ikenoyu and Kotan). Both places have very hot spring water flowing into the frozen waters of the lake so feel free to soak in the water with the swans. While the swans are not particularly welcoming, they won't bite! Do spend a day or three in the little village of Kawayu Onsen. You will come across some Ainu people. They are the original native inhabitants of Hokkaido and live in a few villages concentrated around the lake.

Enjoy several indoors and outdoor onsen (hot springs), and numerous ashiyu (foot onsen) around the village. About 4 km outside Kawayu is the Iozan thermal area in the nearby hills. Witness some very active vents but walk cat-foot wherever you step. The steam is extremely hot around the yellow sulphur mount vents!
Hokkaido Island is blessed with several natural hot springs areas. Probably the most famous are those around Noberibetsu and Lake Toya around the active volcano of Usu. The best time to enjoy these outdoor hot springs are in winter when your surroundings are covered in snow while you snuggle up in the nice hot waters. Leave your swimsuit at home as its not custom in Japan to wear any swimwear in the hot springs. While in most places males are separated from females, several onsen offer mixed bathing areas - just bring along your fig leaf (which is a small white towel to cover your privates when outside the water, and rest it on your head when inside the water to keep your head warm). Follow the Japanese ritual to carefully wash your entire body before entering the pool and wear your yukata (and not your “kimono”, which is worn outside the house) to and from the baths.

While not on Hokkaido Island, but in northern Honshu Island in the eastern Akita Prefecture, Globerovers Travel highly recommends the Tsurunoyu Onsen. This very romantic and cosy ryokan (guesthouse) with onsen is secludedly located in a valley near Lake Tazawako - a crater lake and also the deepest lake in Japan. A washitsu room (Japanese style) with tatami mat goes for over ¥9,500 per person (about US$110), which is not cheap, but a very worthy indulgence to a tired traveler. Also in northern Honchu Island near Yamagata, is the lovely little village of Zao Onsen. Flanked by high ski slopes, this onsen offers several smallish hot springs, of which some are outside along a stream flowing down the mountain. Be here in the middle of winter and you will be surrounded by a snowy winter wonderland. Don't miss the Juhyo (snow-covered trees that look like monsters) at the very top of the ski slopes. Again, be here in January and you will be in the deep freeze with the most amazing sights of snow covered trees you have never seen anywhere else.

When done with Hokkaido, head for southern Japan - most notably the islands of Kyushu, Shikoku and Miyajima.

See HERE for photos of these islands, including Honshu Island.

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